The winemaker reveals how to awaken a passion for wine, what philosophy he sees in Prosecco and which trends could shape the wine world in the future.
The Pola family has been producing dynamic Prosecci at the Andreola winery in Valdobbiadene DOCG since 1984. The focus here is on the special terroir. Stefano Pola, who took over the winery from his father, bottles wines from the Glera grapes that are intended to express "the flexibility and softness, the juiciness and creaminess on the palate, and the intense fruit aromas on the nose" in every bottle. Falstaff spoke to the winemaker.
Falstaff: How and when was your passion for wine awakened?
Stefano Pola: My passion for wine began at a very young age, when I helped my father Nazzareno with simple tasks in the cellar and vineyard. Over the years, I became aware of my duty to carry on the family tradition and the connection to wine became indissoluble.
What is it about wine that fascinates you?
The need to challenge ourselves again and again with each vintage, to know how to interpret it in order to best express what our vineyards are able to give us. Because let's face it, quality wine can always be associated with festive, celebratory moments or beautiful circumstances...
What is the best part of your job?
If you can do them well, one thing is certain: you NEVER fall into the monotony of routine, there is always something new to do, enjoy or solve.
How do you ignite people's passion for wine?
Passion only arises with full awareness, with information from an early age. At the moment, a certain type of policy seems more concerned with turning consumers "against" us rather than bringing them "closer", and this is already bearing fruit, just look at the sudden drop in per capita consumption. People must not only see the alcoholic, harmful part of a wine product, they must be introduced to the production methods, they must fall in love with the discovery of their own taste, express preferences and thus be educated to a conscious approach.
If you had to summarise your attitude to wine or your wine philosophy in one sentence, what would it be?
Our philosophy focuses on trying to express a unique style of wine every year, characterised by the purity of the product and the maximum enhancement of its original characteristics.
What makes your winery special?
Quality at any price. We have seen and experienced many different situations over the years, but one thing is certain: we have never compromised and spared no expense when it came to the quality of the end product. We have always invested in and believed in Rive del Valdobbiadene DOCG, even at a time when many were abandoning it to buy huge flat estates in the DOC area. I don't know how many others have done that. So: quality above all else - even against the tide if necessary.
What are the characteristics of a good wine for you?
When we go to tastings/events or trade fairs, it often happens that we drink more than a few bottles of wine: at the end of the evening, we look at the order in which the bottles have been used up and which bottles have not been emptied. This nice, certainly unscientific test can give us an idea of which product is the most pleasant and therefore well-made, regardless of the type and variety: in short, the wine that is out first is almost always the best.
Which wine region is currently still underestimated?
We can confidently start with a self-criticism and mention Conegliano-Valdobbiadene DOCG, the area we come from. We personally believe that we have a lot to show the world and we are working seriously on it. This year we have managed to bottle eight products with grapes from a single vineyard in order to maximize the qualitative characteristics and diversity that our wonderful region can give to the grapes. But there is still a long way to go to improve consumer perception.
What trends will shape the world of wine in the coming years?
If you look around, it seems that the world is currently demanding more and more low-alcohol or even dealcoholized wines. We have already tasted products on the market and were frankly amazed that this could be a viable option, especially if demand is high - without having to consider the health aspect due to the enormous amounts of sugar and the lack of sustainability due to water consumption during production. As incorrigible romantics in our sector, we believe in the strength of territories, origins and traditions, and we will do our utmost to promote our values.
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