In a central location in Basel, right next to the Mittlere Brücke, is one of the most prestigious restaurants in Switzerland: the "Cheval Blanc". It is known far beyond the country's borders and for years has been considered one of the hundred best places to eat in the world. The restaurant is part of the renowned hotel "Les Trois Rois", which has been hosting guests since the 17th century. Among them have been such illustrious personalities as Napoleon Bonaparte, Queen Elizabeth II and the Rolling Stones.

Anyone who receives such high-profile guests must also be able to cater for them in a manner befitting their status. This is ensured by chef Peter Knogl, who has been at the stove of the "Cheval Blanc" since 2007. Born in Bavaria, he grew up quite humbly on a farm and learned to cook first with his mother and then in a restaurant in the Bavarian Forest. He started his real career not far from his hometown of Deggendorf when he signed on with cooking legend Heinz Winkler. Knogl worked under Winkler for several years, both at Munich's "Tantris" and at the "Residenz Heinz Winkler" in Aschau in the Bavarian Chiemgau region. After that he went out into the world; he cooked at the "Tristan" in Mallorca, at "Le Chantecler" in Nice and at the "Saveur" in London, among others. On these stages he developed his own style of cooking, which he now describes as "classic French haute cuisine, reinterpreted with Mediterranean and Asian influences."

Knogl was working in Geneva at the time when he heard that "Les Trois Rois" was looking for a chef for the "Cheval Blanc" for its reopening after renovation and decided without further ado to apply. The rest is history; just a few months after the launch he was awarded his first Michelin star. In the next guide, it was already two stars, and since 2015 Knogl has been one of the four chefs in Switzerland to be awarded three stars.

Quality without compromise

When asked what has kept him, the former globetrotter, at Cheval Blanc for 17 years now, Knogl answers quite pragmatically: "We have a great owner who gives me a lot of freedom. Besides, I have long-term goals and always have them in mind - you can't achieve something like this in the short term. Success obliges."

Knogl's cuisine is timeless, and has a clear, classic line that puts the selected produce in the foreground. "I never compromise on quality," says the maestro. The star chef likes to work with luxury ingredients such as Wagyu beef, caviar or lobster, but at the same time serves dishes based on seasonal vegetables. However, vegan guests will not be happy with him. Knogl wants to stay true to his own line, and for him, being influenced by classic French cuisine, this includes the use of butter and cream.

Knogl appreciates constancy, just like his regulars. Once a dish makes it onto the menu, it often stays there for a long time. Nevertheless, he is by no means reluctant to change: "My cooking style is constantly changing, just as the world and people are constantly changing. My dishes have become more modern and lighter over time, and I'm constantly adapting them." Time and again he also demonstrates in his dishes why he is often referred to as "Sauce king"; his famous sauces sometimes set a delicate, sometimes a strong accent. On the plate they nestle up to the ingredients and highlight them without ever drowning them out.

Pleasantly nostalgic

The ambience in the guest room of the "Cheval Blanc" is classic, as if preserved in a time long gone. Outside the large windows the wide Rhine has flowed by since time immemorial, inside the dining room is elegantly furnished; as a guest you enter a portal to the Belle Époque. Chandeliers hang from the ceiling, the round tables are set in white and decorated with candles provided with the stands. The numerous waiters wear classic jackets and black bow ties and read every wish from the guest's eyes.

The almost reverent atmosphere in the dining room is also created by the extremely attentive maître d'hôtel Giuseppe Giliberti, who has been spoiling the guests of the "Cheval Blanc" since 2015 and carries out his profession with passion and charm. He, too, used to work at "Tantris," Heinz Winkler's Munich talent factory. Giliberti, of course, knows about every detail on the map and explains them to the guest with pleasure. He and his team are always there when needed, but they also know how to keep their distance.

With such a well-rehearsed and experienced team, a world-class sommelier should not be missing. At "Cheval Blanc", Christoph Kokemoor, one of the best in his field, looks after the wine list and accompaniment. With great skill and his enormous expertise, he marries the best wines with Knogl's multi-layered dishes to create a coherent whole. Of course, renowned growths are used, but also a wine from a young, up-and-coming winemaker or an unknown wine producer. Kokemoor has also been working at "Cheval Blanc" for quite some time, taking up his position in 2008.

This consistency is probably a big part of the unique restaurant's recipe for success - you look for it in vain in many places today. Regular guests particularly appreciate the endeavour, but even those who are guests at the "Cheval Blanc" for the first time sense that a well-coordinated team is at work here. It is to be hoped that this trio will continue to provide gastronomic moments of happiness for many years to come.